OK, it’s really the first day-and-a-half. It started after we docked in Manta, Ecuador. That afternoon myself and a dozen fellow cruisers jumped onto what seemed to be a souped-up school bus the for four-hour ride to Guayaquil, where we hopped on a plane to Lima, Peru. There we slept in an extraordinarily plain hotel (that I shall not name) before returning to the airport for the flight to Cusco.
One hour flight, over 11,000 feet (~3,400 m) elevation change. This was almost 2,000 feet higher than Quito, my previous record. Yes, I felt it. However, I never had any kind of altitude sickness; our guides fully understood our condition and paced the activities accordingly. Our bus/van was equipped with oxygen, just in case.
After lunch we walked to the Cusco central plaza. Side note: I’m not going to get into any long conversation about the Spanish “explorers” and such in this blog. Just understand most 1500’s era Spanish buildings were built on top of the ruins of Inca temples.
At one side of the plaza is the Cusco Cathedral, which is impressive. However, outside we saw a teen girl in a prom dress with several of her friends, also dressed up. Seems this was a “quinceanera“, or “coming out” party, celebrated when a girl reaching 15 years old. That’s a good start for any cathedral.
Formally known as the “Cathedral Basilica of the Virgin of the Assumption”, they did not allow photography inside. So, you are restricted to the wiki to see that. Of note:
- Many of statues had real hair – seems there is an annual “hair replacement” event where volunteers sheer off their locks and donate to the Cathedral
- A darkened “Earth Jesus” crucifixion statue is associated with protection from earthquakes
- In Peru guinea pig is a delicacy. There is a painting of the Last Supper, with roasted guinea pig as the main meal
- The Cathedral is made of local stone – many of the glossy stone columns were the color of root beer (which got my attention)
Facing the Cathedral is a fountain statue of Pachacuti, who started the expansion of the Inca empire. Bad timing, with the Spanish arriving not long after his death.
We then (slowly) walked to the Temple of the Sun, or “Qorikancha”. Very important temple pre-Spanish, so of course it was mostly destroyed. I said I wasn’t going to talk about it. They also do not allow indoor photography (see the wiki), but the minimally-mortared stone work is amazing. Here is a view of the city and surrounding land from the back of the temple. In the garden you can see art of a condor, puma and snake – three animals worshiped by the Inca religion.
We then drove to our hotel within the Sacred Valley. Here it was “only” 6,500 feet (2000 m). But the hotel was fabulous. Nice grounds along the river and great interior design. A giant step-up from the airport hotel.
Next: Salt Ponds and Alpacas